Chicago
Chicago: Midwestern Splendor
Chicago was built along Lake Michigan, second largest of the Great Lakes by volume, and an amazing park district has preserved the land along the lake, allowing locals and visitors alike, free access to every inch of the Chicago lake front.
Melding an immeasurable variance of neighborhood traditions, cultures and hip trends, Chicago is the ideal mixture of Midwestern hospitality and metropolitan bustle. Take a look at our local experts' take on the top places to see and be seen.
Table of Contents
I. Visitor's Quick Guide to Chicago
c. Architecture and Attractions in Chicago
e. Arts & Entertainment in Chicago
f. Unsung Attractions of Chicago
a. North
b. West
d. South
I. Visitor's Quick Guide to Chicago
Downtown Chicago is a bustling city where locals, live work and play. The downtown area is a great starting point for any traveler. Four and five star hotels are plentiful on "The Magnificent Mile" yet budget travelers need not scurry to the outskirts of the city. The downtown area offers something for everyone in terms of accommodation. Top picks for luxury accommodation: Park Hyatt and the Sofitel. Top picks for boutique hotels: The James and The Sax Hotel. Top picks for budget travelers: The Avenue Hotel, The Talbott Hotel, The Tremont Hotel, Hotel Indigo and The Majestic Hotel.
Almost every inch of the city is accessible by the CTA, either by "EL", Chicago's subway and elevated train system, or by public busses. Three day passes can be purchased in any subway station. Aside from public transportation, taxis can be found on nearly corner in the downtown area. One can get from one end of the city to the other by taxi for about $15 to $20 depending on traffic.
Architecture and Attractions in Chicago
If you're into sports, Wrigley Field, built in 1914, is located in the heart of the city, in a neighborhood called Lakeview. Lakeview has many attractions including great bars and shopping surrounding the park. A day at Wrigley Field is unlike many other baseball experiences, friendly Cub fans make for great hosts and the park has often been referred to as the World's Largest Beer Garden.
When it comes to architecture, Chicago is an American leader. Frank Lloyd Wright, Mies van der Rohe, Bertrand Goldberg, Frank Gehry, Skidmore Owings & Merrill, just to name a few, all have played an integral part of Chicago's skyline and landscape. Buildings and public spaces that may serve as points of interest to architectural enthusiasts include: The Auditorium Building, The Chicago Cultural Center, The Merchandise Mart, Crown Hall, Glessner House, The John Hancock Center, Lake Point Tower, Marina City, The Daly Center, The Robie Residence, Willis Tower (aka Sears Tower), The Civic Opera House, United Terminal at O'Hare and Millennium Park. For tours of Chicago architecture, The Chicago Architecture Foundation is your best resource: http://www.architecture.org
If you're coming to Chicago for the shopping, keep in mind that the City of Chicago has one of the highest sales tax rates in the US, be prepared to pay 10.25% for sales tax. Unlike Europe, the US does not offer a refund of sales tax to foreign visitors at the airport. The good news is, shopping is considerably less expensive than in other metropolitan areas around the world. You can find famous boutiques like Prada, Chanel, Yves St. Laurent, Gucci and Louis Vuitton all in the Gold Coast area. Additionally, there are many local owned boutiques that carry lesser known designers and some local designers with limited distribution. Boutiques like Ikram & Ultimo in the Gold Coast neighborhood and Helen Yi, P. 45 and Hejfina in the Bucktown neighborhood. Spring of 2009, Barney's New York will open its doors to their new location in Chicago, a larger store with a rooftop restaurant for their shoppers. For bargain shoppers, there are multiple outlet malls only a short distance from downtown, "Chicago Premium Outlets" in Aurora, approximately 40 miles from downtown, offers 120 Outlet stores of popular designers and mall stores like Banana Republic and Ann Taylor.
Arts & Entertainment in Chicago
If you are thirsty for culture, Chicago is the right place. The Art Institute collection, particularly the Impressionist, is impressive by any standard. The Museum of Contemporary Art has also achieved an enviable ranking for modern collections bringing thought provoking exhibits and performances to Chicago. The Lyric Opera of Chicago is regarded as one of the top opera houses in the world, showcasing top talent in award winning productions. The Lyric Opera is only third to NY and San Francisco in the United States. The Chicago Symphony Orchestra is a highly regarded, classical orchestra. In addition to some classic favorites, Chicago is home to one of the best Mexican art collections in the US, the Mexican Museum of Art in the Pilsen neighborhood. Check out many of the smaller music venues while in Chicago, the legendary Metro, The Double Door, The House of Blues, Buddy Guy's or The Green Mill for jazz.
Chicago is well known for the numerous theaters throughout the city. The critically acclaimed Steppenwolf, founded by Gary Sinise, calls Chicago home. Actors like John Malkovich, Laurie Metcalf, Martha Plimpton & John Mahoney launched their careers at The Steppenwolf. Chicago is a hotbed for the theater community, from the famous improv, The Second City, where the likes of Peter Boyle, John Belushi, Bill Murray, Dan Aykroyd, Eugene Levy, Jeremy Piven, Amy Sedaris, Stephen Colbert, Amy Poehler and Tina Fey have all performed. Other notable theaters include: The Bailiwick, Collaboraction Theater, the impressive Redmoon Theater or the Circle Theater in Forest Park, and finally, Chicago Shakespeare Theater on Navy Pier.
If you plan to buy art in Chicago, get your walking shoes on. The Gallery district in River North has much to offer, one can walk for blocks visiting dozens of galleries in the popular neighborhood. In recent years, due to the rising cost of real estate, many galleries have moved into the West Loop area, therefore, one should not neglect the West Loop when seriously considering a gallery tour.
Unsung Attractions Around Chicago
Willing to dig a little deeper for a true Chicago experience? You may have to travel a little but you could visit the McDonald's Museum in Des Plaines, about 15 miles from downtown Chicago. The Leaning Tower of Pisa was replicated next to the YMCA in suburban Niles, about 15 miles outside of downtown. While you're out that way, pay a visit to Super Dawg drive-in for a true Chicago dog where a waitress will bring your dog to your car while you wait.
Other suburban adventures include: Six Flags, Great America, The Brookfield Zoo, The Volo Car Museum, Ribfest in Naperville, Ravinia in Highland Park, The Botanical Gardens in Glencoe and The Morton Arboretum in Lisle.
II. Chicago Expert Recommendations: Neighborhood Spotlight
Chicago is also great for those who like to travel off the beaten path. Whether it is a cool bed and breakfast, a nature conservatory like the Garfield Park Conservatory, the Bahai temple or The Lighthouse in Evanston, beatnik style café's like Heatland Café in Rogers Park, great Mexican food in Pilsen, German-town, now known as Lincoln Square, or Swedish-town, now known as Andersonville, whatever you are looking for, venturing into the little neighborhoods of Chicago, will uncover many hidden gems.
Andersonville
Whether you come from a long line of Swedes, or simply love Swedish Fish gummies, Andersonville is a laid-back neighborhood that wants you to lull you into a sugar coma with its landmark, 75 year old Swedish Bakery and the to-die-for cinnamon rolls served up at Ann Sather’s Restaurant. While Swedish families were largely replaced in the 1980s and ‘90s by lesbian and artist communities, you can still get a taste of the nostalgic past at the Swedish American Museum Center on Clark Street. Whether you’re a bona fide globe trotter or a weekend enthusiast, stop at Kopi, A Traveler’s Café where you can sip tasty organic juices in a cozy, international ambiance. If a frothy brew is what you’d rather be sipping, check out The Hop Leaf bar also on Clark St. This classy pub has an amazing selection of Belgian and North American beers, as well as surprisingly tasty mussels (mind you, the closest water source is Lake Michigan). Around the corner on Lawrence, Taste of Lebanon serves lunch on a shoestring, making authentic falafels for around 3 bucks. - Carly Kus
Uptown
If there’s one place you need to go in Uptown, it’s the Green Mill on Broadway, a jazz lounge once favored by the likes of Mr. Capone himself. The ambiance hasn’t changed a bit in the 70 years since mob henchmen called the shots, and you can almost imagine deals going down in the wrap-around, velvet booths. The illuminated stage welcomes national and local jazz acts, but shhhh! Security is serious about respecting the musicians, so if you want the bartender to show you the hatch behind the bar that leads to Capone’s underground trafficking tunnel once used during Prohibition times, please ask discretely. Not too far north of the Green Mill is Agami Sushi, an ultra modern dining space with tanks full of exotic fish and plush, red leather seating. The sushi is fresh and delicious, as is the cucumber martini— be warned, they taste like sweet, cool water on a hot, summer day. - Carly Kus
Wrigleyville
Wrigley Field is a Chicago landmark where die-hard fans root on the cursed Cubbies who haven’t been able to clench a title since 1908. Built in 1914, this stadium is the oldest in the major leagues, and it’s worth snapping a photo in front of the vintage marquee. If there’s a night home game, get tickets even if you’re not a baseball fan—it’s a thrill to see the action under the stadium lights. But if you’d rather just take a quick peek to see what all the fuss is about, there’s a huge “knothole” on Sedgwick Avenue, giving you an unobstructed view of the playing field. The myriad bars along Clark Street are largely frequented by college-aged sports fans, and the vibe during regular season is often that of boisterous merrymaking. South of Wrigley Field is Belmont Avenue, where good restaurants are more difficult to come by than alternative hair colors and goth shops. Head East on Belmont and enter Boystown where bland is not a part of the local vocabulary. If baseball and body piercings aren’t your thing, you’ll be sure to find something here to tickle your fancy—a pink, French maid feather duster perhaps? - Carly Kus
When I moved to the city 12 years ago, I didn't have a clue about any of it. All I knew was Belmont and Clark -- it was my ground zero for all things city. So, it wasn't strange that I would gravitate toward there when I decided to find an apartment. For all of the ugly stereotypes that Wrigleyville has become (drunken frat boys, clueless tourists, faceless chain bars), there are still lots of great things about the neighborhood for natives and newbies alike. Let's not ignore the obvious: Wrigley Field is a gorgeous piece of history that is the crown jewel of the neighborhood. Located directly off of the Addison Red Line stop, it boasts a long and storied history -- mostly of disappointment, but a long and storied history, nonetheless. Stand outside during a game and the energy is electric. Definitely take a walk around on an off-day, too. During the season, there are tours of the park that benefit the Cubs' charity -- it's a must do if you have the time. Up north of the stadium is Uncommon Ground, which has gotten a little more upscale since its humble beginnings as an independent coffeeshop that featured live music. Coming south is Metro, which depending on how long you've lived here, sometimes has a "Cabaret" in the front of its name. I've seen countless memorable shows there -- from The Decemberists to Dylan. There's iO, the Improv Olympic, where you can catch a variety of live improv every night of the week. A little further south, Pick Me Up Cafe, a great place to hit up late night for a vegetarian friendly meal and a *strong* cup of java. And The Alley. Every goth/punk teenager's dream. Leather, piercings, Doc Martens. Anything you could want to get out of the mainstream. There's a lot to do and see in Wrigleyville besides the Cubs, and this is just the start. - Jocelyn Geboy
Lakeview
In a city where meat is something of a religion, Chicagoans welcome Tango Sur on Southport Avenue with open arms. The interior of this debonair, Argentine steakhouse is very intimate, and by intimate, I mean small. It’s always packed and they don’t take reservations, but don’t let the wait or the crowds deter you. The low hum of good friends chatting and feasting on traditional cut steaks and grass fed specialties creates a convivial ambiance. There’s love in the air, so bring your date and hang out patiently for a table to open up. The 20 minute delay will be ancient history after you’ve tasted the bif Vesuvio, a prime strip stuffed with garlic spinach and cheese. If your patience is simply runs too thin, check out the Village Tap on Roscoe Street. There’s a fireplace, so you’ll make up for some of the cozy intimacy you missed at Tango Sur. The bartenders are sweet as pie and encourage guests to taste free samples of their favorite Midwestern microbrews; everything on the dinner menu is a safe bet. - Carly Kus
Lincoln Park
With DePaul University and the Lincoln Park Zoo located in this neighborhood, the median age is 23, the average number of kids per family is 2.5, and the dress code is yuppie. The Zoo doesn’t amaze; however the Lincoln Park Conservatory on Stockton Drive does. Built around 1890 before the Chicago World’s fair, it hosts acres of glass-enclosed exotic plants, from ancient palms to modern lilies. For dinner, many a foodie will make the pilgrimage to one of the neighborhood’s critically acclaimed restaurants, Alinea and Charlie Trotter’s. But if tradition is more your style the hot dogs at Weiner Circle are pimped-out in traditional Chicago fashion (don’t even think about asking for ketchup). The Bourgeois Pig, appropriately titled for the area, is a great place to sip a cup of their specialty lemonade while admiring the interior of vintage splendor of this brownstone-turned-coffeehouse. Kingston Mines is a hot spot for live blues until the wee hours of the morning. The place draws big names to its two stages. The ambiance is sweaty, genuinely Chicago, and makes up for the expensive cover charge. - Carly Kus
Lincoln Square
Originally settled by German immigrants, this niche now has an über-diverse selection of international dining. You won’t be writing home about the Grecian Taverna, but Café Selamarie will serve you a croque-monsieur dreamy enough to momentarily mistake yourself for a Parisian. Leave the metropolis and dine French country style at Bistro Campagne. Guests here are nearly always celebrating a special occasion, but don’t bring your party hats, it’s fancy. The Chicago Bauhaus features live, delightfully authentic German entertainment to keep you bouncing, even when the German fare can leave you feeling weighed down. For German beer, stop at the Huttenbar, a place to don your leder hosen with welcoming locals and jam to the tunes of the juke box. Feeling Irish? Can’t help you. But the baked mac-n-cheese at The Grafton Irish Pub will make you feel like a pretty lucky kid. Don’t bother with the Indian restaurant on the corner of Lincoln and Wilson avenues; the prices are high and the quality is questionable. - Carly Kus
Brimming with activity year-round, Lincoln Square is perfect for families with a flair for the unique. Strollers and dogs often adorn the sidewalks, especially during the weekends. This is a neighborhood with a lot of interesting stores -- two (two!) magic shops within a block of each other, a down-home bowling alley on top of what used to be a local hardware store (Lincoln Square Lanes), an independent bookstore (The Book Cellar) and an independent record store (Laurie’s Planet of Sound). If coffee is your drug of choice, you are not going to be wanting. The Grind and Café’ Neo are your best bets, but if you must, there is a Starbucks. For your entertainment dollar, Lincoln Square is a safe haven for those down on their dollar. The Davis Theater shows first-run movies at a slightly discounted rate and there is nearly always some sort of live entertainment in Giddings Plaza on the weekends. The Western stop on the Brown Line drops you in the heart of Lincoln Square and the Lincoln Bus (11), Western Bus (49), and Lawrence Bus (81) will all do the job, too. - Jocelyn Geboy
This neighborhood loves strollers! Most staff members at restaurants along Lincoln Avenue won’t protest or roll their eyes when moms and dads come pushing kids in double-decker, off-road strolling vehicles. Just opposite Welles Park, 42° N. Latitude Kitchen and Cocktails is adult and kid friendly, with veggie adorned Bloody Marys for the folks, and a tot’s menu little ones can’t resist. Check out the legendary Old Town School of Folk Music’s schedule to choose from their monthly schedule events and concerts. Near Mertz Apothecary is the grandfather figure of Lincoln Square where prices for bath products are high but quality is unsurpassed. Not too far away, Hanger 18 is an untraditional baby boutique/gift shop with a load of amusing, decaled onsies. The Book Cellar has a superb collection of literature, Canadian Unibroue beers and Intelligentsia coffee, along with a children’s literature section flashy enough to keep your wild things charmed while you peruse and sip, sip and peruse… As a side note: if you want to avoid children, stay away from the Starbucks on Lincoln and Wilson Avenues. It often more closely resembles a day care center than it does a coffee shop. - Carly Kus
Hands down, Jury’s is the best place for burgers in this neighborhood. Don’t let the interior décor scare you away; white, linen tablecloths and second hand art are nothing but testaments to the restaurant’s eccentric character. Be sure to choose the onion rings as your side (or if you’re a fry fanatic, have the person next to you get them), they are mouthwatering hoops of golden perfection. 42° N. Latitude has burgers worth paying ten bucks for, and Bad Dog Tavern’s noteworthy pizza is best eaten within the intimate, partially enclosed outdoor patio space. Go to the Daily Bar and Grill for the nachos and quesadillas, but whatever you do, steer clear of Bowman’s on the corner of Montrose and Lincoln. This run-of-the-mill sports bar is a disappointment every time, from mediocre food to wait staff with less than average intelligence levels, this place is practically begging you to keep walking elsewhere on Lincoln where you’ll be sure to get a quality meal. - Carly Kus
Rockwell Crossing
Lincoln Square’s next door neighbor, Rockwell Crossing is a very small nook in the Lincoln Square/Ravenswood neighborhood. However, people can’t help but to comment on the different feel of the area. The Brown Line comes and runs on ground level here on Rockwell; the lights flashing and the safety bells ringing give children a delight all day long. Bloom Yoga is a favorite of the neighborhood, keeping people healthy and limber, and giving special focus to mothers – in all phases of their journey. The Nest is an acupuncture practice specializing in Chinese Medicine for women and children, and Ruff Haus is the place “for hip dogs and cats.” If you’re hungry, you have several options: for a burger and a beer, check out Rockwell’s – but you’ll have to wait until after 4 p.m. For an upscale pizza – woodfired with candles on the table – check out the Art of Pizza (and wait until after 4 p.m.). But for breakfast, lunch and an early evening snack – Beans and Bagels is the real deal. Homemade pastries, bagels, desserts and salads await you. Homemade soup, sandwich of the day, and smoothies are also on the docket. And let’s not forget the beans – a variety of beverages made with Metropolis coffee, and at a fraction of the prices at the ‘bucks. - Jocelyn Geboy
Wicker Park
Stand at the “5 corners” intersection of Milwaukee, North and Damen and you’ll notice the Wicker Park neighborhood packs an eclectic mix of pure urbanity in every direction. The neighborhood has a reputation for being the bloodline of the Chicago underground and indie music scene with record stores like Reckless Records on North Avenue satisfying your heart’s eardrum whether it bleeds for punk or country. Mainstream venues like The Double Door and Subterranean eschew the underground status to become popular hang-outs where the pierced convene with the urban outfit-ted to listen to edgy alternative sets or DJs spinning hip hop. If you want to get off the beaten path and listen to pop punk and garage rock venues with Pabst drinking hipsters, check out The Hideout on Wabansia and Elston. Jazz and blues play nightly at Smoke Daddy on Division Street, where music is secondary to the well-crafted Chicago delicacies served there: slow cooked pulled pork, brisket and BBQ ribs. - Carly Kus
Ukrainian Village
What’s great about Wicker Park’s little brother is that he’s much more interesting than everyone thinks he is, which means you’re going to be impressed. You may notice there’s less buzz along Chicago Avenue than there is on Division Street, so give this area a chance by playing up its assets: residential buildings. Some of the bungalows, converted churches, two and three flats found here proudly flaunt their unique presence, beautifully carved balustrades and prominent turrets. Start your walk early at Sunrise Café on Chicago, this greasy spoon where the waitresses call you “darling” is more centrally located and cheaper than the Breakfast Club on Hubbard, which also has a spectacular brunch menu. Get your afternoon pick-me-up at Sip on Grand Avenue. The staff is not all that friendly, but the back patio is adorable and when you’re sitting there you don’t need to see them anyway. For dinner, Green Zebra restaurant on Chicago is a vegetarian’s dream, serving only contemporary, non-carnivorous fare. The Empty bottle on Erie and Western is a hip, semi-dive where throwing down a few beers is synonymous with rockin’ live sets of various musical genres. - Carly Kus
Little Italy
While the Italian immigrant community may not be growing strong as it was at the end of the 19th century, the Little Italy moniker still rings true for many Italian Americans rooted near Taylor Street. On this road you’ll find an Italian grocer that is quite popular among the locals, plus some remarkable Italian restaurants like Rosebud’s, Francesca’s and Pompeii. Al’s Beef is the pride and joy of students, professionals and neighborhood families; the staff quickly turns out hot dogs, Italian beefs and sausages to long lines of customers during lunch hour. Sweet Maple’s puts tender loving care into their buttery grits, one of the only places in the city where this southern side is available. The wait can be pretty long on the weekends, so your best bet is to go during the week before 2 p.m. when it closes. For history lovers, there’s the Jane Addams’ Hull House on Halsted which was once the welcome mat to the doorstep of America for many immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries. For Italian ice, go to Carm’s on Polk Street, they’re experts. - Carly Kus
Greektown
Yes, you can hear staff members at one of the many Greek restaurants along Halsted Street screaming “Opaa!” as white dinner plates crashes at their feet. There is no lack of authenticity in this neighborhood, especially at Athena restaurant, where the gyros and the tzatziki sauce are unbelievably fresh. This is one of the few spots on the Halsted strip that has an awesome patio space equipped with transplanted trees and fountains for dramatic effect. One of the problems with this neighborhood is parking, it’s costly. But if you can fork over the cash, there are plenty of working valets who would be more than happy to oblige you. Artopolis has great baked goods; it’s worth waiting until desert to head over there. The Orpheus Hellenic Folklore Society specializes in the presentation of traditional Greek dances, check out their schedule for a pre-or post-dinner show. - Carly Kus
Pilsen
From its beginnings, this neighborhood belonged to a slew of different immigrant communities. The most recent to plant their roots are the Mexicans and Puerto Ricans who have nurtured the creative impulse. Walk down 18th or 26th streets and admire the wall murals painted by local artists, or for a more formal art viewing, go to the National Museum of Mexican Art. Especially in the summer, this neighborhood loves to party, which explains the explosion of boutiques specializing in party accessories. Nuevo Leon is a great Mexican restaurant among many; you even get a surprise free appetizer if you go during weekend brunch hours. Café Jumping Bean on 22nd Street attracts coffee loving creative types. Skylark’s on the corner of Halsted Street and Cermak Road has great beer, but mediocre tater tots. The prices at this real-live-dive are cheap and the photo booth is a rare treat. - Carly Kus
Chinatown
Chinese immigrants made this area their home in the 1870s near the former Comiskey Park (now U.S. Cellular Field). The architecture at the Pui Tak Center on Wentworth Avenue is stunning, and when you stop for a moment to stare at it, you’ll notice that the hustle and bustle around you is markedly different than that of others neighborhoods you’ve visited. At the shops along Wentworth it’s trinkets-galore, plus a curious amount of hand-carved nativity scenes. Stop at Ren’s Teas where you’ll be faced with the difficult task of choosing among walls of loose-leaf tea lined shelves. If you’re curious, head into a fish market and see how the counter person handles her finned friends previously doing laps in the giant, on-site tank. Joy Yee’s Noodles is a favorite for lunch where the smoothies are sublime. For dinner try Moon Palace. The minimal décor at the Phoenix Restaurant suggests the owners invest in what’s important: the food. - Carly Kus
